Anybody got any ideas with this 1.set up = 4 x mitsi elec mr slim large cassettesindoor - PLH - 5GKHVoutdoor - PUH - 5YK2all run off 1 remote control.3 units run fine in both heating and cooling.unit no 2. Doesnt kick in.no leds on pcb outsite.compressor sounds fine.error code on remote is p8misti elec tech guy said 'check the outdoor board'i thought i was playing give us a clue.asked again for bit more details - 'check the outdoor board'now interestingly, the bypass solenoid valve is quite burned out, il post the pics in abit.and the liquid reciever is quite burned also.any 1 got any ideas please? Hi KrupsP8 means 'Abnormality in Outdoor Unit' that's why the tech guy has told you to look at the outdoor unit.Possible causes1 Wrong wiring of Indoor/Outdoor connection2 Reverse Phase3 Protection Device operated4 damaged Outdoor coil thermistorAreas to check1 Check continuity of the interconnect wiring - look for breaks (I've had it where rats have chewed the wiring before )2 Check the phase rotation - has any work been done on the unit mains wiring?3 Has any safety activated? Compressor klixon? HP switch, Fan overload? Etc.4 Measure the resistance of the coil sensorIf you are still struggling then give Mitsi Technical a ring 0.

1. Mitsubishi Mr Slim Service Manual
2. Mitsubishi Mr Slim User Manual
3. Mitsubishi Mr Slim Installation Manual

P8 is not just an outdoor unit fault!!!It is triggered 15 mins after a heating/ cooling signal has been sent to the outdoor unit and there is less than5oC differential between room sensor and indoor coil sensor. Sensor errors can also produce a P8Anyway most P8's occur when there is a power cut on site - outdoor unit thinks its lost a phase so shuts down. To reset just turn outdoor isolators off to all outdoor units, wait 10 secs, then switch back on again.If the outdoor unit has a fault on it you'll find a list of led sequences on the inside of the cover-On old R22 systems there are eight (one will be flashing), on 407c/410a systems there is a red and green led.

If you have missing phase defect reset power, if you have th4 (discharge) too high it is likely that you have a leak- these are the 90% of Mr slim probs that i come accross. The solenoid coil? If the coil is taken off the valve stem then it can't dissipate it's heat and can burn out. Also, if the valve is running for any length of time extremely hot due to high discharge pressures/temps then the same thing can happen.Of course it could just be that the coil is knackeredMy guess is that the indoor filters have been heavily contaminated and the compresor has been running hot leading to a HP trip.It's probably nothing to do with the phase rotation as the other units are working. You can swap the outdoor coil sensor with one of the other units to prove that it's working and it's fairly simple to do a continuity test on the wiring.

Doesnt kick in.no leds on pcb outsite.compressor sounds fine.Does the compressor work or not??do you know that you should never push contactors in on a misti / daikin / tosh etc.to test outdoor board you can check that you have 18v ac on the interconnecting wiring - this shows that you have an output at least. All boards have fuses and ZNR's check them!!If you push sw1 (i think) you will see the last led fault code- if the sun is shining on unit you may need to get in close to see which led is flashing. On all mitsi/ daikin there is tape over contactor that say 'don't push in' you must have torn this to push in.I think that you may get back feed that can effect pcb etc. Also on some models pcb controls compressor rotation (i think) so you may damage it!!It is alright to push in contactors to most other fridge stuff, but japanese ac units with pcb's are a no no!I still think you may want to reset power to clear fault then put guages on if unit runs, get yourself a solenoid magnet to test the valve. Also if site (or unit ) has lost a neutral it will blow ZNR (blows at 550V) make sure this hasn't blown (it looks like a green leaf) -if it has check neutral and replace outdoor pcb.

Naruto vs pain full sub indonesia mp4 online. Hi mate Ive had this error code before and its a bad one! Basiclly P8 comes up when the indoor evaporator does nt read any temperature differential change over 9 mins so Have you checked Gas Charge??? You say compressor is ok but No lights on the Board?

Mitsubishi Mr Slim Service Manual

They Can be very tiny lights and make sure you roll a tube of paper to see them as this creates a bit of darkness as you look down the tube. Best put the Gauges on See if you got head/suction pressures Before you do that Check indoor coils for Cooling to 10 deg offset to controller. You should get some change before 9 mins is up:-) Its usually compressor or Gas or yeah Board:-).

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Gain access to our free AOP (Ask a Professional) Section to get real answers for your questions.All this and much more is available to you absolutely free when you; for an account, so today!We suggest not registering using an AT&T, BellSouth, AOL or Yahoo email address. If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please.We have a new announcement for the New Contracting Technology BootcampClick here for the information. Hey all, I'm working on a Mr. Slim heat pump and the code p8 is coming up on the stat.Model numbers PUH18EKPLH18FKThe unit will run sometimes for ten to fifteen seconds then shutdown. Then it will run for three minutes or so and cool ok then shutdown with the the p8 code. I found some some problems when I opened the condenser.

The cap is weak and only putting out 22mfd when it should be 30. Also the voltage going to the unit is 208 and the transformer was hooked up for 230. I corrected the voltage issue but did not get to the cap because it looks special.

I did not have much time to play with it but I noticed while it was running the liquid line started freezing up. When I put my gauges on it the pressure on the high side was around 160. I know these things are a different animal from what I usually work on. Looking for some advise on what could be the problem. I will post some pics in a few.Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD. In the one pic that molex plug that is corroded was not plugged into anything.

Mitsubishi Mr Slim User Manual

I could not find what should be plugged into it. While I was reading the manual it said to ohm the temp sensors that are attached to liquid an suction lines but it does not say what values I should be looking for. It also said it could be the board but I don't want to just throw parts at it. Ugh.Sent from my iPhone 4susing TapatalkThe Molex plug is for a second condenser motor, the head pressure is way too low, low and high pressures should be in range with a regular R-22 Ac unit, nothing special about it.the thermistors should read between 4.3-9.6Kohms with outdoor temp ranging from 50 to 86FLook for a restriction in the liquid line strainer, they are bullet type,hard to spot sometimes, common problem with them units.

Mitsubishi Mr Slim Installation Manual

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